Sunday, 6 April 2014

Riyadh, Saudi Arabia - part one



I was nervous about visiting Saudi Arabia. As I sat on the plane, I thought about all I’d read of the treatment of women there, in this society that was as strange to me as ours was to them. When the flight purser announced we were starting our descent into Riyadh, I put on my borrowed abaya and hijab and hoped for the best.


We were to be in Riyadh for just over a week. I was producing and co-directing a documentary about Isadore Sharp, who started the Four Seasons hotel chain. Saudi prince, HRH Alwaleed Bin Talal, had bought the chain with Microsoft’s Bill Gates, and we were interviewing him about Mr Sharp and the purchase of the Four Seasons brand.

As unofficial guests of HRH, we had our visas fast-tracked, and were lucky to be staying at the Four Seasons Riyadh inside the 99-storey Kingdom Tower, which oddly enough (given that alcohol is forbidden here) resembles an enormous bottle opener.

As an woman, I wasn’t strictly allowed to work in Saudi Arabia, nor was I allowed to travel with anyone who wasn’t my husband or close relative. My male boss and co-director, should anyone ask, was my “father.” I’m not sure what would’ve happened had anyone asked about the married cameraman or unmarried sound guy who were traveling with us.

We were met at the landing gate by one of HRH’s people, and as we were escorted to customs, I became extremely conscious of my gender. The lines of men in traditional long white thobes were long, (I didn't see one other woman,) and as we waited for our passports to be stamped I felt their eyes on us – no doubt wondering why we were jumping the queue. Even the guys felt it – they were wearing long pants and long-sleeved shirts, and looked as western as could be.

Customs cleared, we walked out into the still and humid air, climbed into two black SUVs, and were driven to the Four Seasons Riyadh to begin our adventure.


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